Bicycle Recommendations

The following bicycle recommendations are for NICA riders around Austin, in the Texas Hill Country. The trails we ride are very rocky with punchy climbs and descents. Our recommendations require more robust bicycle components than standard NICA recommendations to contend with our terrain. I.E. - if we were in Houston, these recommendations would be different. The team has 100s of years of combined cycling experience, when in doubt ask a head coach or director. They'll help you with any questions you have after you read this page. 

There are many different bicycle brands, so we're not going to recommend any one brand. We will offer some examples from Trek because Trek includes bicycle weights on their website. You should know that Trek, Specialized, Canyon, and Polygon have NICA discounts if you want to buy new. Instead of specific bikes (outside of 5 example bicycles), we're going to offer recommendations by Group Set. The Group Set is generally the level of components that compose the drivetrain and brakes of a bicycle. Manufacturers sometimes mix the Group Sets (a nicer rear derailleur with lower-end components) but these recommendations work as a rough guideline. There are two major manufacturers of bicycle Group Sets - Shimano and SRAM. Both have tiers of components that are generally comparable and are covered below. 

Modern bikes vs. older bikes

Do not invest in a bicycle older than ~5 years. Even an older bicycle in exceptional condition with a higher-end Group Set may not be a good investment. Bicycles are getting safer and more fun as standards evolve. Cycling standards are evolving making it difficult and/or expensive to upgrade older frames. A simple test is to determine if the bicycle is 'boost' (148mm in the rear and 110mm in the front). If the bicycle is listed as boost, it's (as of 2024)  going to be easier to upgrade. Be wary of any bicycles with 135mm or 142mm spacing in the rear and 100mm spacing in the front. You will see 'deal' bikes from manufacturers in these older standards. These are difficult to upgrade and difficult to sell. 

Hardtail vs Full Suspension

A hardtail isn't good for everyone but they tend to be good for younger/lighter riders. Hardtails are generally lighter and cheaper and help teach better habits on the bike. Older and heavier kids start to benefit from the full suspension as they continue to get stronger and faster, but the bike is generally heavier. Regarding suspension, there is front (fork) and full (fork and rear suspension). The suspension is listed in mm ranging from 60mm to 180+mm. For our purposes, younger and/or lighter riders likely won't benefit from the extra travel above 120mm, sometimes not even above 100mm. Even adult XC racers very rarely have any suspension greater than 120mm. 

Weight

Weight matters more to a child than an adult, and more to a younger child than an older child. Most entry level mountain bikes weigh 30+ lbs. The relative weight of a 30lb bike to an 80lb child is fun-prohibitive. To see what we mean, click here and change the orange number cells to get an idea of the relative weights of the bikes you're considering. For reference, the average XC racing hardtail weight for an adult is 23-25 lbs. 

Examples of Trek hardtails (fall 2024):

• Marlin 6 ($900 - 32.63 lbs). 

• X-caliber 9 ($1900 - 28.11 lbs)

• Pro-caliber 9.6 ($3,000 - 25.05 lbs)

Examples of Trek full suspension (fall 2024):

• Top Fuel 9.8 (full suspension) ($6,600 - 28.44 lbs)

• Supercaliber 9.7 (full suspension) ($5,700 - 26.42 lbs)

• Supercaliber 9.9 (full suspension) ($12,000 - 21.4 lbs)

The take home on weight is to do the most to get a bike that your child can enjoy and give the sport a fighting chance. Think about this - kids don't play soccer wearing a backpack full of books or volleyball in hiking boots and a parka.  If money is an issue, there are NICA discounts available (mentioned above) and NICA Texas has a loaner bike program (average weight for a Texas NICA loaner is ~28lbs). Austin High also has some loaner bikes. The used market from NICA families is a good place to check/ask questions. Please note, Austin High School Mountain Bike team does not make any recommendations for used bicycle purchases due to the liability this can convey. Any recommendation you may have received from a member of the team does not carry the team's authority. 

Tubes vs Tubeless

We recommend Tubeless. We do not recommend tubes. If you have tubes, make the switch to tubeless ASAP. Tubes = sadness. The areas we ride have many thorns and sharp rocks, a nice tire (Maxxis Rekon EXO for example) coupled with a tubeless-ready rim will go a long way to keeping a rider on the bike and not on the side of the trail fixing flats. You will need to maintain the sealant levels in tubeless wheels but it's a small price to pay for minimizing flats. If you buy a tubeless-ready wheelset that is not set up tubeless (it comes with tubes) you can do the upgrade for around ~$50 if you're handy. You should know you may need to upgrade the tires to tubeless-ready tires as well which can add between $80-$120 to that equation. 

Mechanical vs. Electronic

Mechanical, cable-actuated drivetrains are reliable and inexpensive. You don't need to worry about getting an electronic drivetrain - the 'regular' electronic AXS drivetrains work basically the same as mechanical and the mechanical never need charged. The new SRAM T-Type drivetrain (electric or mechanical) is a true upgrade and should be considered if you have a racer or an athlete who is very hard on equipment (T-type is more difficult to damage & does not have a derailleur hanger to bend). Other than that, the choice between mechanical and electronic boils down to personal preference and weight. 

Suspension Brands

As a general rule, the 2 big suspension brands are Rockshox (good) and Fox (better). Within each brand, there are tiers of suspension, very similar to Group Sets. The bicycle manufacturers generally pair appropriate suspension to the bicycle. Something to watch out for are chrome stanchions, those usually indicate a poor shock. Avoid any suspension made by Suntour. 

Dropper Seatposts

Dropper posts are not required but they are extremely helpful - particularly for a new rider - to remain safe on steep terrain. Fox Transfer posts are pretty light  (particularly the SL) and add a level of safety that overshadows the weight gain. When a rider can drop the saddle out of the way they're able to attack jumps and rough descents without the fear of being bucked by an improper weight shift. All of our coaches and the bulk of our riders have dropper posts. 

Cost

NOTE: These are guidelines, not rules. Bicycle pricing ranges from ~$800 - ~$12,000. Know that the differences between an $1000 and an $2000 dollar bike are more significant than the differences between an $2000 and a $3000 dollar bike. A good level to shoot for is around the $2,000 - $3,500 range - above ~$3,500 the returns become less significant per dollar spent. That said, you can find good used deals, good retail deals, bad used deals, and bad retail deals. If you're not familiar with bicycles, the used market can be confusing. Buying a bike from a retail shop like the Trek store on Lamar usually comes with some expectation of service and help from the store. It may come with warranties and guarantees that used bikes may not come with. 

As riders grow, they will mostly likely need a larger bike. Keep this in mind as you purchase. Don't buy a bike they'll grow into - a too-large bicycle is unsafe, uncomfortable, and unfun. Buy a bike that fits (maybe a little on the larger side) and then you can sell it when you get a larger bicycle. Trek Lamar has an upgrade program. NICA Texas also has a Facebook group for buying and selling bicycles. Don't forget that the youngest riders benefit most from the lightest bikes. 

Entry-Level (Good)

What does entry-level mean? These bikes will allow the rider to participate. They will be heavier than ideal making climbing difficult. The shifting, braking, and suspension will be less than ideal but will allow participation on the trails we ride. The durability of the components is lower and the parts, particularly wheels and drivetrain, don't handle abuse very well. Often, entry-level bikes need upgrades immediately (tires, tubeless, maybe wheels) negating the money saved initially. If the athlete decides to continue in the sport they will likely need further upgrades (wheels, drivetrain, shocks, cockpit, etc.). These bicycles usually have lower-end frames (machine-built aluminum with thick-walled tubing). If you're looking in the lower range,  prioritize a boost frame that is nicer aluminum or carbon so it has some upgradeability. That said, lower-end bicycles often sacrifice upgradeability by using older frame standards or thicker/heavier frame materials. Often, families will buy an entry-level bike with the intent to upgrade and end up spending more on the piece-meal upgrades than it would have been to get a better bike to start. A Marlin is an example of an entry-level bike. 

Mid-range (Better)

What does mid-range mean? These bikes allow the rider to have more fun on the bike with fewer worries. The parts are the most durable of the tiers and are generally a decent investment for longer-term use before parts need to be replaced. These bikes are lighter, and the shifting, braking, and suspension are smoother/crisper than an entry-level bicycle. These frames are often nicer make of aluminum or carbon fiber. A Trek Pro-caliber (or a higher end X-Caliber) are mid-range bicycles. 

Race ready (Best)

These bikes are the lightest bikes you'll find. The components are crisp and smooth. They are not generally built for durability as much as they're built for weight reduction. This is where you want to look for a bike for a serious racer. A Trek Supercaliber is an example of a race ready rig. 

Recommendations

Full Suspension: Not required

Frame: Boost compatible (148mm in the rear and 110mm in the front)

Wheels: Size 29 and Tubeless (or Tubeless Ready)

Forks: Fox or Rockshox

Suspension Travel: Not more than 120mm front and rear if full suspension (this is XC racing). 

Group Set (Drivetrain and Brakes): wireless is not required